A very depressing moment as my 4 day weekend comes to a close. But it's okay, I ate plenty surfed plenty - so no complaints here. Tom'w it's back to work, and crap, I get choke work I need to do before I go on vacation for the rest of the year - that's right, only 7 more work days!
Surf Report
North winds made for a brisk morning session - and I surfed from maybe 8-10am! When I saw the surf I was kicking my self for not having my leash (forgot it at home b/c of my country carpooling). I wasn't scared of the size moreso the winds, was thinking my board could blow away it was so windy. The good sets were maybe chi-chi high with most of it in the knee to chest range - I surfed an empty point.
Nice surprise, I wasn't expecting to surf, in fact brought my 5'8 Fishy thinking I was going to go jogging to work off the Thanksgiving feast.
Mahalo
A big mahalo to Lisa who sponsored AM breakfast - I was torn, green tea w/ Jon and Randy or Big City Diner...
No camera but shared da Ani's Cinamon Sweet Bread French Toast, Pancakes with macnut-haupia-something topping. Personally, I had da hot chocolate a side order of link sausage, side order Paniolo Potatos b/c Lisa was giving me the three eggs from her breakfast (Big City Diner Fresh-Homemade Corned Beef Hash and Hash Browns).
Had to go home crash couple hours after that was pau.
Report
VP and I went country dis morning, and Lele met up w/ us there. Looked harmless while we was watching and thought, "can, get little bit." Yup, padling out, had some monstahs out there had easy double overhead on da good sets... too much north so most of da waves was crashing, but every now and then the new NW would show up and give the Chunns breaks some good angled waves - just big kine...
I had my camera in my pocket b/c thought had little bit, but that's where it stayed, it was too crazy out there. Lele and Jonny took some pics from land today so check their side
Board Review
Tried out my new Piranha today and I was surprised it paddles really good, seriously! Lele and Jonny beat me to da line up but I was a close 3rd. On da wave... not used to having so little board on such large waves. I definitely need to practice on some shoulder to head high ones before I try overhead+ again. I think it's going to be a great board! All I know is I practiced a LOT of Duck Diving today.
Town Report???
See da post before dis one if you like da Country Surf Report, dis one's on my shopping.
Since I was in Haleiwa and it was late I figured I'd pop into dat Surf-N-Sea sale and look at da BOGO sale. Actually wasn't BOGO - you could buy just one and get da 50% off. Seen them sale 4 Laird SUPs while I was there - the soft top ones were like $600-something. If you wondering - yes, they jacked up da prices.
But I wouldn't be blog'n if I never buy something, huh? Ouch I no 2 boards in one month!
I picked myself up my own Rusty Piranha - here's da brother/sister pics
Da white one's my older brother's it's a quad and 6'10. Mine is a thruster and is 6'6. I was riding da quad dis morning and was doing good. It was $420. Not sure if I goin' keep da board tho, I like finish fixing my project board and get that one in da water. I just figured for da price, if my project board no work out, then I got my board... just had pick it up to keep da price cheap, If I no like da board I goin sell'em I can make $$$ at dat price.
I tink da shortboarders are on to something - you can buy 2 boards for da price of one LB or SUB!
MLGF - had brand new k-boards you was looking for - would come out da same price. Plus da deck pad and leashes are 1/2 price too!
Mission accomplished yesterday - ate plenny... Even tho I crashed out early, I still never wake up until 7am - slept like 9.5 hrs! I think was da thanksgiving kau-kau and da winds was howling last night... What do you know I wake up and da winds was calm...
Stuck to da plan and went country - going down into Haleiwa gotta lil worried when I seen all da white caps.
Unusual I can take those pics - never get dat much light when I go country. And since I was running late I figured I'd surf the first place dat I could find parking and went straight to Chuns.
(Chuns/Jockos/Pids)
What you cannot really tell is da bombs was coming in ~6ft+. Well in da first pic - you see dat lil guy on da wave on da inside? Yeah maybe was bigger... BTW - CHOKE parking and very empty.
If you wondering, Lani's looked the same. Altho had may 15 cars parked there, it was mostly fishermen.
Thinking was kinda big I started heading towards Haleiwa and stopped off at Puena
Two things to take note of
1 - look how small
2 - look how many SUPs - like I keep saying c'mon SUP'rman rush Country!
Was tiny, maybe waist high here, and looking over Haleiwa - it was just right so drove on over to find Shobu paddl'n in and Peter paddl'n out.
But more importantly it was 4' and empty! Check da guy goin' left on da last pic - dats where I was and what I was scorin' 2nd to last pic is Avalanche - really can't tell but it was good sized out there.
What are my plans today? Eat choke food - well maybe not, I not anorexic, so I not goin' choke and no like choke... put it dis way den - KAU-KAU!
I gotta bring da candied yams and pumpkin crunch - gotta start cook'n! (pics to follow)
Like I posted on SUP'rman's blog - a big Mahalo to all da turkeys dat nevah surf today! I know y'all tot I was da turkey for goin' out but it wasn't dat bad. Actually was bad at first and I picked waves off all da way down to courts and all da way back to da point, it wasn't til my 3rd try at SO dat it got gud - here's da picture roll call -
BigDawg got da SUP down!
Jonny almost nevah cum out but shot his load when he did
T_T's - Terry & Tom
Yeah those T_Ts no look to gud how about these
Dwight - I like his Karate stance - maybe he can challenge Lay-lay
Lele & Pastor Pete - these two guys kept pick'n up da beeg ones
Even with dat many peeps out and me pig'n out (practicing for dinner) to tweak my hunger still had extras.
Happy Turkey Day - May-B I go Country tom'w...
Until what - I thought Thanksgiving was Thursday? 8 more work days before I go on vacation for the year - use it or lose it! I kinda wished the surf were junk in town so I'd be going to work early because I got plenty to do before then.
Anyways da real report - flat-tiny, see!
It's not holiday or weekend this can't be Bobby, not today -
And SUP'rman's wave of the day - this is the wave he was talking about, honest!
Just kidding (but not lying) - I couldn't get a clear shot when he first took off, Lele was in da way (buggah should lose some weight) and there was a side ass peak in front of him - this shot was taking further along - but still that wave though.
I gotta be good, no can lie bumbai Santa don't hook me up this year. I'd hate to have Chica buy another board and leave it for me to use while she goes to school - wait no can lie, I'd actually really love if she did it again!
Here's some pics from today you can draw your own conclusions - I tried to draw my own, but I don't know what a "conclusion" looks like. I need to ask Zig what that means...
Sorry poor lighting since I'm shooting into the sun while Jonny is shooting straight - see
Right after he shot me, I shot him right back. Sorry Chica, he caught me when I was going for the upskirt PRV for you.
Definitely thankfull for off season town swells! What swell you ask? Well usually by this time of year, I'm by my lonesome. It only really started last year when I started getting company - Dwight training for the marathon and CT SUPing in da dark. Any other year I'd be stoked to have waves like this!
That said I was still to spoiled and almost when jogging except when I was passing ML reallity hit me and I seen enuff waves to get me to paddle out.
Of course surf slowed down so whipped out my camera and took a few photos. With the way ML walls up it isn't that conducive for photos so only a couple turned out.
Despite my honorary ML regular status, I have no idea what either of their names are but I do see them out there often.
Yup took some pics today - but never come out too good, was either too dark or too bright. Was glassy when was dark and den da wind picked up. When da sunlight hit da buss water was glaring from all over da place (since I shooting left I also shooting right into da sun).
Lele was pig'n out on da inside - oink-oink das why he had choke pics
Never SUP for a while, been playing w/ my shortboards, my legs got tired kinda fast, guess I gotta build'em back up.
Anyways had choke SUP-talk everybody looking for a lil' sumth'n different. In fact Shibata got himself da 12'1" Gun too - bang-bang! Anyways while we was up at Chuns yesterday, I saw Mr. PSH with something that looked new and hot - like I said looks like a new really pulled in Ripper - found this shot on facebook - dis what looked like - call it da pin tail ripper.
VP and I took a trip up North today b/c I wanted to try out Joey's M13 - things started off AM Sick
Didn't come all this way to sit on the beach and make sand castles so we venture out anyways - the sun came out later and chased away all the bumps and smoothed things out. Ran into GoodYear Randy out there with his groupees who were the first ones out.
SUP'rman - had choke SUP'rs out this morning - they seemed to be paddling down da coast must've counted like 20 - you should come one of these days.
Here's some surf photos of I dunno, waves were actually shoulder high with the very occasional head highs but these aren't photos of those (Lanis/Hultons had head high kine).
Wrong angle for pids - so it was totally crappy and I surfed Chuns... yup means I was going backside - was a nice change.
Just more pics - I tired make write already
How's da AM siiiik shore break!
Like I said later came nice
Yup it's da Furlough Friday - proof? Here's two DOE employees:
Plus had da skool teacher Tara at SO. I was hanging at ML since SO was all SUP'd out and way crowded.
Only other shot I caught was HSS Dave Kelley goin' right
No get all excited definitely was inconsistent and small - ska'd not goin' have nuff waves for he weekend crowd. Maybe gotta take a surf furlough weekend?
Recent Comments
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jonny said:
-Gurl surfs nice! I like when gurls put their knees together to turn...-Karate Man verses Kung Fu Master?-thanks for pics... read more
on Happy Turkey Day! -
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jonny said:
WOW! nothing like water shots! brings the wave to real size... maybe real + too! read more
on 2009_1124TC0009
nice pic and wave! read more
on 2009_1127TC0052